Authors: Dr. Sanjaya Uprety, Pukar Bhandari, Sambid Ghimire
Introduction
Sindhuli Gadhi is a hilly fortress on Mahabharat Range that, for a large period in Nepal’s history, served as the Eastern pass to the Kathmandu Valley. Now located in Kamalamai Municipality of Sindhui District, the Sindhuli Gadhi complex is just adjacent to the B.P. Highway. Spread across an area of 205,471.28 square meters, the area is home to three fortresses, namely Pauwa Gadhi, Sano Gadhi, and Thulo Gadhi. The British force under the command of Captain Kinloch, who had come to aid Jay Prakash Malla against invading Gorkha forces, faced defeat at Pauwa Gadhi (Aadha Bhanjyang) in 1767 AD, making it a significant scene in the military history of Nepal.
Pauwa Gadhi, originally built as a tax collection office by Sen rulers of Makawanpur, was later developed into a fort. During Captain Kinloch’s expedition to Nepal, Gorkha soldiers defeated the British forces with advanced war weapons and superior numbers at Pauwa Gadhi, attacking the British forces from Pauwa Gadhi, Rangechaur, and Dhungrebas. Spears and stones were thrown at them and were helped by the use of human traps, wild herbs, and the breaking of wild hornet hive. This victory ensured the continuation of Prithivi Narayan Shah’s Unification Campaign of Nepal and essentially laid the foundation for the modern history of Nepal.
Stone stacked forts of Sano Gadhi and Thulo Gadhi were built after the war at Pauwa Gadhi to strengthen the fortress. Sano Gadhi, built as the second line of defense, acquired support for Thulo Gadhi for its operation. Largest of the three forts, the Thulo Gadhi (aka. Thulo Aadha) had the provision of the rest house, water pond, storage of weapons, and gun ports along the wall to fire cannons or shoot at advancing enemies. It was built as the last line of defense although no further wars were fought at Sindhuli Gadhi.
Over time, with no more wars, the area developed into an administrative center. Serving as headquarter to Sindhuli, Dolakha, and Ramechhap, it got populated and housed numerous administrative buildings including garad ghar, top khana, Parade ground, courthouse, jail and quarters. However, the most significant among the administrative buildings have been Rani Durbar, still popular in folklore even though the structure is completely in rubbles. During its peak, this Rana-style Neo-classical Palace, constructed in 1908 A.D., was the symbol of power at Sindhuli Gadhi. This was initially used as a residence and later throughout the Rana Regime used as an administrative center. Badhahakim of Sindhuli would run administration from the palace.
The shift of headquarters to Sindhuli Madhi Bazar in 1962 A.D. lead to the decline of Sindhuli Gadhi. Though used to store arms and ammunition, including two cannons captured in the 1767 war, till more than a decade later, the lack of maintenance took its toll on one of the most significant war memorials of Nepal.
Left: Conjecture by local authorities moved wall inside from landslide claimed area of Thulogadhi.
Right: Embrasure on Sanogadhi at ground level- clear distortion.
Photo: Pukar Bhandari
Values
The fort has unique historical value as it represents a glorious history of Nepal’s effort to national unification. Its later role as an administrative center with construction of Rani Mahal and other administrative units exhibits the disposition of layered history. The materials, geometry and construction method of Gadhi and reminiscent of other structures expresses unique architectural value of the place. It could serve as historical resource to the unique surrounding rural settlement like Chapauli.
Top: Rangechaur ridge, a major war location, claimed by BP Highway.
Bottom Left and Right: Construction of retaining wall at Pauwagadhi. BP Highway effectively isolates the entrance destructing the original route and threatening the integrity of the fort.
Photo: Bijeta Dahal, Sambid Ghimire
Threats and challenges
Wandering through the stacked stones walls, one could easily distrust its significance given the sorry state of the fortress. For all its glorious history, the area now looks completely abandoned. B.P. Highway runs right beside Pauwa Gadhi, cutting off the traditional route from Sindhuli Madhi- Dhungrebas- Rangechaur- Aadha Bhanjyang (Pauwa). The vehicular road leading inside the complex has been used to access Chapauli village, essentially dividing the complex to two parts and encroaching small parade ground.
With entrance now at Sola Bhangyang, the majority of visitors never reach Pauwa Gadhi, which has been essentially being pushed to the tail-end of the complex by the highway. Restoration attempts of Pauwa Gadhi have seen the use of cement mortar which endangers the authenticity of the place. While landslides have claimed some portions of Thulo and Sano Gadhi, recent conjecture by local bodies has clearly resulted in a shift in the position of fort walls. The ground level and number of gun ports have also been found to deviate from historical accounts. Rani Durbar, now in rubbles, is in dire need of reconstruction.
While it may not be possible to reestablish the settlement in the complex, there is an urgent need for conservation attempts. Thorough archeological investigation of the site may help establish original location and footprints of fort walls and now lost buildings. The alternative alignment of B.P. Highway and the vehicular road leading to Chapauli is necessary to ensure the integrity of the complex. It would also help connect Pauwa Gadhi with significant war locations; Rangechaur and Dhungrebas along the traditional route.
Sindhuligadhi has been of a downward spiral for over half the century, ever since the shift of district headquarters. Development of complex as a tourist destination could potentially aid in the sustainability of Sindhuli Gadhi. Development of war museum, tourist support, and recreational facilities, coupled with planned conservation attempts on monuments can help propel Sindhuli Gadhi back to its former glory.
Top: Ruins of Historic Rani Durbar.
Bottom Left: Intervention on Pauwagadhi by DoA using Cement plaster and white paints on the wall.
Bottom Right: Displaced stone inscription as seen on the newly constructed hall.
Photo: Bijeta Dahal, Sambid Ghimire